Preparing your tracks for reamping: A Guide

Glenn Fricker · March 13th, 2007, 06:13 PM

ULTERIOR MOTIVE ALERT!! I've been getting a lot of requests from forum members to do reamp jobs lately. Believe me, I'm greatful for the work! However, I find myself answering the same questions over & over again, so I figured, "what the hell" & thought I'd type up this handy little guide to tracking your guitars for reamping.

HOW TO PREP YOUR TRACKS TO BE REAMPED

What you'll need:

1) Your guitar
2) A good acurate tuner. I highly recommend G-TUNE. Peterson licenced this program's technology for their inferior "Strobosoft." This is the original, & totally kicks ass. Get it HERE
3) Computer & soundcard
4) Direct Box
5) Mic preamp

So what the hell is reamping, anyway?
This is a question I've been asked many, many times. Simply put: Reamping is where you track a dry signal off of your guitar's pickups alongside of your normal amped/modeled tracks. The dry signals are then exported & sent off to another facility which might have a better selection of amps/preamps/mics & the experience with mic techniques to turn your tracks from "damnit I wish this sounded better" into "I have unleashed the fury of hell!!!"

So how do I do this?

Well, there's several ways to route this, all depending on what you want to do.

USING AN AMP/POD/WONDERBOX:

You're going to need a direct box. There are many makes & types but they all pretty much do the same thing: They have an input, a "thru" and an XLR output... as well as a ground lift switch. Plug your guitar into the input, plug the XLR output into your cleanest preamp's mic input, & plug the "thru" into your guitar amp/Pod/whateverthefuckitisyouusefortone. Engage your ground lift switch to reduce noise. ENGAGE PHANTOM POWER ON YOUR PREAMP IF YOU'RE USING AN ACTIVE DIRECT BOX!! Set up your DAW so you're recording the dry sound of the pickups from your mic preamp & a second track for your amp.
MAKE SURE TO RECORD AT 24 BIT Now, dry tracks might look a little weird. All spiky & shit, & sort of wimpy. Resist the urge to put a limiter on the track or compress it. Just don't do it. If your Soundcard has a limiter, TURN THAT FUCKER OFF We're trying to capture the essence of the playing... the signal that a guitar amp gets. This is not meant to be pleasing to the ears. (it won't be) Try setting your preamp's gain so that the absolute loudest part of the guitar's signal is peaking at about -3 to -4dB below the zero mark on your record meter. You're recording at 24 bit, so you have plenty of room before noise sets in. Don't try to get the level to zero, it'll cause you grief with overs. A dry guitar is very,very dynamic & unpredictable. -3 to -4 will work great.

USING SOFTWARE EMULATION/SOUNDCARD DIRECT INPUT
This is pretty much a no brainer. You can use a direct box, or if your soundcard has an instrument level input, you can use that! Plug in, set up your daw for live monitoring, & set up your favourite amp sim. Just make sure that the signal is recorded PRE-FX: Meaning that the raw guitar is recorded before it's processed by the amp sim.
If your amp modelling software is a CPU hog, there are ways to get around it: First, set your DAW up in "live" mode. Then you can set up a buss with the amp sim plugged into it. Then set up an AUX send from you dry guitar's channel to the bus, & send that ouput to another recording input, thereby recording the dry, unafeccted signal, & the output of the amp sim. This makes life easier for playing multiple tracks! You can also use this method to record thru a POD via it's USB I/O section.

TIPS:
Re-tune after every take. This goes double if you're quad tracking.
Make sure your guitar is set up correctly. If you don't know how to intonate, take it to a local tech & have him do it. Just make sure to mention what you're tuned to, these guys can be rather dumb when it comes to metal. I don't know how many client's guitars I've had to re-intonate because they're tuned down 4 steps & the tech set it up for standard tuning.
Make sure all your volume pots, jacks & electronics are in good working order. That includes making sure the ground wire inside is actually connected. (true story. Client showed up with his ground undone & couldn't figure out why he was getting noise every time he touched his guitar.)
To export: Make sure you export at 24 bit, to a MONO wav file. NOT stereo, mono. It's pretty much self-explanitory why, but you'd be surprised.....
That, & make sure your tracks all line up together properly.... especially if you're quad tracking your rhythms. One quick & easy test to check would be to export your dry tracks, then re-import them into your daw under a new project name, pan them out & hit play. You'll be able to tell very quickly if you've exported something wrong. If things are out of sync because you screwed up the export, imagine what they're going to sound like when you get them back from reamping!

ABOUT DIRECT BOXES

These come in 2 varieties: Passive & Active. If you're using a cable run under 20 feet, you can go passive. Anything longer, go active. Myself, I use the Radial Tech J48 Active direct box. It runs off the phantom power of my mic preamp. It's a little more expensive than some other boxes, but it's built like a tank & will probably last my lifetime. A great box. I highly recommend this unit.... especially if you're playing active pickups.
Here's a link. RADIAL J48 ACTIVE DIRECT BOX

One caveat: If you're playing passive pickups, you might want to look at the next direct box...

*AMENDMENT*
Mutant was very kind in pointing this box out... If you're running passive pickups, this is the box to buy. It's the same price as the J48, but has a much higher input impedance which will better preserve the tone of your passives:
Evidently, the input impedance of a direct box can play a critical factor in tone: Mutant explains it far better than I ever could further down in this post.....

Countryman Type 85 LINK
The only caveat with this box might be if you're running actives like an EMG... It might not be able to handle the loudest passages of your playing.... I.E. it might 'splat out' on the strongest transients.

If you're in the poor house, an ART passive box will do the trick: Like a cheap hooker "pulls a trick" if you will. It's not the greatest, in fact, it's a little on the noisy side. But what do you want for $26 USD? Here's a link:
ART PASSIVE DIRECT BOX

One interface Gavin & I have been testing is the Hi-Z input on the good ol' Edirol UA 25. We got some very impressive results with this: once he turned the limiter off, that is! For the life of me, I can't find any specs on the input impedance, but it did blow away the ART box. FYI, it was with active pickups.....

Now there's many different boxes between these & I can't say good or bad about any of them. However, the one box you should avoid like the plauge is the Berhinger DI20 Ultra DI 2-Channel Active direct box.

It's noisy as hell & pretty much useless. Remember, you're amplifying the guitar signal several thousand times when it's reamped. A tiny bit of noise in your direct signal can turn into a major clusterphuk when you crank it thru an amp!

Afterthoughts:
This is not a definitive guide to prepping your tracks for reamping. I'm quite sure other forum members have opinions on the subject & I invite them to share. Hell, I'm sure there's stuff I've missed here, so have at it!

-0z-

-Gavin- · March 13th, 2007, 06:15 PM

Subtle as fuck!

SocialNumb · March 13th, 2007, 06:27 PM

thanx oz!

Jaymz · March 13th, 2007, 06:32 PM

Nicely done sir!

_RiseInside_ · March 13th, 2007, 07:11 PM

thumbs up !

SymbolicSV · March 13th, 2007, 08:49 PM

Mike Wead · March 13th, 2007, 09:10 PM

Great guide indeed!

The only think that leeps to my mind is in a way obvious:
When monitoring,use a sound that make even minor flaws audible i.e. not a forgiving sound that'll give you/your engineer weeks of editing.

flytrapx · March 13th, 2007, 10:26 PM

Stellar explanations as usual, Oz! Re-amping is definitely up there in the "arcane arts" division of engineering.

Were you also going to post info on re-amping the tracks through the amp? That would be killer!

kaomao · March 14th, 2007, 03:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Wead

Great guide indeed!

The only think that leeps to my mind is in a way obvious:
When monitoring,use a sound that make even minor flaws audible i.e. not a forgiving sound that'll give you/your engineer weeks of editing.

The one and only Mike Wead that played with Mercyful Fate/King diamond and now with kryptillusion?
If so remember man I'm a big fan of your playing!

LSD-Studio · March 14th, 2007, 04:22 AM

nothing to add

fistula · March 14th, 2007, 09:57 AM

oz! thank you man!

Quote:

Originally Posted by flytrapx

Were you also going to post info on re-amping the tracks through the amp? That would be killer!

+1

Mutant · March 14th, 2007, 10:01 AM

Me few cents:

Quote:

Originally Posted by OzNimbus

You're going to need a direct box.

Not always.
Only if your soundcard does not have an "instrument level input" with high enough input impedance (>1 Megaohm).
E-mu 1820M has an excellent instrument input/preamp - i'm going to sell my 1212M and buy 1820M as soon as my gear budget allows this purchase.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OzNimbus

ABOUT DIRECT BOXES
Myself, I use the Radial Tech J48 Active direct box.

It is good enough for active pickups but it does not have a high enough impedance for passives.

You can read all about this subject and even calculate how much of your precious signal will that Radial DI box steal from you.

Many professionals agree that the best DI Boxes are made by Countryman.
(Countryman Type 85: 10 Megaohms vs Radial J48: 220Kohms)

fistula · March 14th, 2007, 11:24 AM

just have an question about mic pre-amp

what should i use?

im using at this moment this DJ mixer http://www.numark.com/products/produ...=overview&n=94

is it good enough?

elmuchoescadawg · March 14th, 2007, 11:37 AM

So Oz, when does the book come out?

Jaymz · March 14th, 2007, 12:42 PM

More like the DVD!

Thrasher666 · March 14th, 2007, 02:00 PM

Nothing about using the Radial X-Amp?
I just bought one and it's on it way here. This post makes me think I should send it back. What do you think?
I have a Countryman passive box and a Sansamp Bass DI active, do I even need a X-Amp? I'm using a les paul with passive pickup's at the moment.

Mutant · March 14th, 2007, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thrasher666

Nothing about using the Radial X-Amp?
I just bought one and it's on it way here. This post makes me think I should send it back. What do you think?
I have a Countryman passive box and a Sansamp Bass DI active, do I even need a X-Amp? I'm using a les paul with passive pickup's at the moment.

Oz wrote about preparing for reamping (capturing high quality signal) not about reamping (processing that signal).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thrasher666

I have a Countryman passive box and a Sansamp Bass DI active

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thrasher666

do I even need a X-Amp?

X-Amp is exactly what you need if you want to send a signal from your soundcard to your amp.

Glenn Fricker · March 14th, 2007, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mutant

Me few cents:

Not always.
Only if your soundcard does not have an "instrument level input" with high enough input impedance (>1 Megaohm).
E-mu 1820M has an excellent instrument input/preamp - i'm going to sell my 1212M and buy 1820M as soon as my gear budget allows this purchase.

If you read all of the article, you'd notice I mentioned a soundcard instrument input under "Using Software Emulation."
The only caveat is that to use a live amp with the "direct into the soundcard" method is there is no "thru." You'd have to buy a reamp box & use your soundcard's internal mixer to route the signal back out to the amp. It's fine for pure software, tho.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mutant

It is good enough for active pickups but it does not have a high enough impedance for passives.

You can read all about this subject and even calculate how much of your precious signal will that Radial DI box steal from you.

Many professionals agree that the best DI Boxes are made by Countryman.
(Countryman Type 85: 10 Megaohms vs Radial J48: 220Kohms)

Never had a problem using the J48 with passives. Even when reamping them. I've also read several reviews on it & they all had great results.
Come to think of it, I've read some great things about the JDI, which is a passive box with only 10Kohms on the input. Go figure.
However, there might be something to this, so I'll look into it a bit further. (we're all here to learn something.) BTW, the Countryman is an excellent box!
Radial also has this, which is VERY high on my wish list:

Anyway, thanks for the feedback everyone! I've got a few edits to make to the orignal post still, so hang in there.

-0z-

Mutant · March 14th, 2007, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OzNimbus

If you read all of the article, you'd notice I mentioned a soundcard instrument input under "Using Software Emulation."
The only caveat is that to use a live amp with the "direct into the soundcard" method is there is no "thru." You'd have to buy a reamp box & use your soundcard's internal mixer to route the signal back out to the amp. It's fine for pure software, tho.

I did read all.
I was thinking about the perfect conditions for monitoring: (guitar > soundcard > reamp box > amp) because imho its better to hear exactly what is being recorded instead of splitting the signal at di box and being surprised later that the sound is not like you wanted (after coming through di box, soundcard preamp, ad & da converters, and finally reamp box it will not sound 100% like after just coming through di box split to the amp).

Quote:

Originally Posted by OzNimbus

Never had a problem using the J48 with passives. Even when reamping them. I've also read several reviews on it & they all had great results.
Come to think of it, I've read some great things about the JDI, which is a passive box with only 10Kohms on the input. Go figure.

IIRC 10Kohms is exactly the impedance of my 1212M line level inputs and it is so so for my EMG707 (i tried and thought instantly "something's wrong here", so i bought a cheap 50$ 1Mohm DI).

JeffTD · March 14th, 2007, 09:13 PM

I'd be sure to consider purchasing the Littlelabs Redeye when you guys get into reamping - combo DI and reamp box, and does both damned well!

Glenn Fricker · March 14th, 2007, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mutant

I did read all.
I was thinking about the perfect conditions for monitoring: (guitar > soundcard > reamp box > amp) because imho its better to hear exactly what is being recorded instead of splitting the signal at di box and being surprised later that the sound is not like you wanted (after coming through di box, soundcard preamp, ad & da converters, and finally reamp box it will not sound 100% like after just coming through di box split to the amp).

Fair enough. I see what you're getting at. Hell, it's easy to get confused with this shit! What I'm concentrating more on is if you don't have a reamp box and/or are outsourcing your guitar recording to another studio. I'm getting a lot of stuff sent my way & a public "how to" guide can save me a lot of answering the same questions.

That being said, for my own stuff, I'll have to try out my Great River's HiZ inputs next time & send it out to the amp via the soundcard & reamp box. It's a 1.2 MegOhm input.

Gnash · March 15th, 2007, 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSS3

I'd be sure to consider purchasing the Littlelabs Redeye when you guys get into reamping - combo DI and reamp box, and does both damned well!

http://www.littlelabs.com/redeye.html

Gnash · March 15th, 2007, 03:51 AM

So, I'm getting this soonhttp://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ReampKitbut the J48 doesn't work well with passive pups? Should I just get the X amp, and search for a better DI?

greyskull · March 15th, 2007, 06:39 AM

doesnt it??
bugger
i wanted one?
any one know?
any one know where to get the little labs in the uk, and how much it is?

Mutant · March 15th, 2007, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gnash

So, I'm getting this soonhttp://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ReampKitbut the J48 doesn't work well with passive pups? Should I just get the X amp, and search for a better DI?

Read (and understand) this article.
And then compare specs of J48 @ $179.99 and Type 85 @ $179.99

I would choose Countryman (proper input impedance and better signal to noise ratio).
The only problem with Countryman would be active pickups and its 5V maximum input voltage, but you are using passives.

March 13th, 2007, 06:13 PM	#1 (permalink)
Glenn Fricker Very Metal &Very Bad News Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: 22 Acacia Avenue Posts: 3,989	Preparing your tracks for reamping: A Guide ULTERIOR MOTIVE ALERT!! I've been getting a lot of requests from forum members to do reamp jobs lately. Believe me, I'm greatful for the work! However, I find myself answering the same questions over & over again, so I figured, "what the hell" & thought I'd type up this handy little guide to tracking your guitars for reamping. HOW TO PREP YOUR TRACKS TO BE REAMPED What you'll need: 1) Your guitar 2) A good acurate tuner. I highly recommend G-TUNE. Peterson licenced this program's technology for their inferior "Strobosoft." This is the original, & totally kicks ass. Get it HERE 3) Computer & soundcard 4) Direct Box 5) Mic preamp So what the hell is reamping, anyway? This is a question I've been asked many, many times. Simply put: Reamping is where you track a dry signal off of your guitar's pickups alongside of your normal amped/modeled tracks. The dry signals are then exported & sent off to another facility which might have a better selection of amps/preamps/mics & the experience with mic techniques to turn your tracks from "damnit I wish this sounded better" into "I have unleashed the fury of hell!!!" So how do I do this? Well, there's several ways to route this, all depending on what you want to do. USING AN AMP/POD/WONDERBOX: You're going to need a direct box. There are many makes & types but they all pretty much do the same thing: They have an input, a "thru" and an XLR output... as well as a ground lift switch. Plug your guitar into the input, plug the XLR output into your cleanest preamp's mic input, & plug the "thru" into your guitar amp/Pod/whateverthefuckitisyouusefortone. Engage your ground lift switch to reduce noise. ENGAGE PHANTOM POWER ON YOUR PREAMP IF YOU'RE USING AN ACTIVE DIRECT BOX!! Set up your DAW so you're recording the dry sound of the pickups from your mic preamp & a second track for your amp. MAKE SURE TO RECORD AT 24 BIT Now, dry tracks might look a little weird. All spiky & shit, & sort of wimpy. Resist the urge to put a limiter on the track or compress it. Just don't do it. If your Soundcard has a limiter, TURN THAT FUCKER OFF We're trying to capture the essence of the playing... the signal that a guitar amp gets. This is not meant to be pleasing to the ears. (it won't be) Try setting your preamp's gain so that the absolute loudest part of the guitar's signal is peaking at about -3 to -4dB below the zero mark on your record meter. You're recording at 24 bit, so you have plenty of room before noise sets in. Don't try to get the level to zero, it'll cause you grief with overs. A dry guitar is very,very dynamic & unpredictable. -3 to -4 will work great. USING SOFTWARE EMULATION/SOUNDCARD DIRECT INPUT This is pretty much a no brainer. You can use a direct box, or if your soundcard has an instrument level input, you can use that! Plug in, set up your daw for live monitoring, & set up your favourite amp sim. Just make sure that the signal is recorded PRE-FX: Meaning that the raw guitar is recorded before it's processed by the amp sim. If your amp modelling software is a CPU hog, there are ways to get around it: First, set your DAW up in "live" mode. Then you can set up a buss with the amp sim plugged into it. Then set up an AUX send from you dry guitar's channel to the bus, & send that ouput to another recording input, thereby recording the dry, unafeccted signal, & the output of the amp sim. This makes life easier for playing multiple tracks! You can also use this method to record thru a POD via it's USB I/O section. TIPS: Re-tune after every take. This goes double if you're quad tracking. Make sure your guitar is set up correctly. If you don't know how to intonate, take it to a local tech & have him do it. Just make sure to mention what you're tuned to, these guys can be rather dumb when it comes to metal. I don't know how many client's guitars I've had to re-intonate because they're tuned down 4 steps & the tech set it up for standard tuning. Make sure all your volume pots, jacks & electronics are in good working order. That includes making sure the ground wire inside is actually connected. (true story. Client showed up with his ground undone & couldn't figure out why he was getting noise every time he touched his guitar.) To export: Make sure you export at 24 bit, to a MONO wav file. NOT stereo, mono. It's pretty much self-explanitory why, but you'd be surprised..... That, & make sure your tracks all line up together properly.... especially if you're quad tracking your rhythms. One quick & easy test to check would be to export your dry tracks, then re-import them into your daw under a new project name, pan them out & hit play. You'll be able to tell very quickly if you've exported something wrong. If things are out of sync because you screwed up the export, imagine what they're going to sound like when you get them back from reamping! ABOUT DIRECT BOXES These come in 2 varieties: Passive & Active. If you're using a cable run under 20 feet, you can go passive. Anything longer, go active. Myself, I use the Radial Tech J48 Active direct box. It runs off the phantom power of my mic preamp. It's a little more expensive than some other boxes, but it's built like a tank & will probably last my lifetime. A great box. I highly recommend this unit.... especially if you're playing active pickups. Here's a link. RADIAL J48 ACTIVE DIRECT BOX One caveat: If you're playing passive pickups, you might want to look at the next direct box... AMENDMENT Mutant was very kind in pointing this box out... If you're running passive pickups, this is the box to buy. It's the same price as the J48, but has a much higher input impedance which will better preserve the tone of your passives: Evidently, the input impedance of a direct box can play a critical factor in tone: Mutant explains it far better than I ever could further down in this post..... Countryman Type 85 LINK The only caveat with this box might be if you're running actives like an EMG... It might not be able to handle the loudest passages of your playing.... I.E. it might 'splat out' on the strongest transients. If you're in the poor house, an ART passive box will do the trick: Like a cheap hooker "pulls a trick" if you will. It's not the greatest, in fact, it's a little on the noisy side. But what do you want for $26 USD? Here's a link: ART PASSIVE DIRECT BOX One interface Gavin & I have been testing is the Hi-Z input on the good ol' Edirol UA 25. We got some very impressive results with this: once he turned the limiter off, that is! For the life of me, I can't find any specs on the input impedance, but it did blow away the ART box. FYI, it was with active pickups..... Now there's many different boxes between these & I can't say good or bad about any of them. However, the one box you should avoid like the plauge is the Berhinger DI20 Ultra DI 2-Channel Active direct box. It's noisy as hell & pretty much useless. Remember, you're amplifying the guitar signal several thousand times when it's reamped. A tiny bit of noise in your direct signal can turn into a major clusterphuk when you crank it thru an amp! Afterthoughts: This is not a definitive guide to prepping your tracks for reamping. I'm quite sure other forum members have opinions on the subject & I invite them to share. Hell, I'm sure there's stuff I've missed here, so have at it! -0z- __________________ Glenn "0z" Fricker Audio/Video/Photo Last edited by Glenn Fricker : July 22nd, 2007 at 06:00 PM.

March 13th, 2007, 06:32 PM	#4 (permalink)
Jaymz Stymphalian Productions Join Date: May 2006 Location: Darlington Posts: 7,052	Nicely done sir! __________________ Schecter C1 Hellraiser & Loomis 7 FR, Gibson Explorer, LTD Explorer, Kemper Rack, EVH 5150III, Mesa Oversized 4x12, Overwater Contemporary Jazz 5 www.facebook.com/theblackstymphalian

March 13th, 2007, 08:49 PM	#6 (permalink)
SymbolicSV Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: El Salvador Posts: 165	nice

March 14th, 2007, 12:42 PM	#15 (permalink)
Jaymz Stymphalian Productions Join Date: May 2006 Location: Darlington Posts: 7,052	More like the DVD! __________________ Schecter C1 Hellraiser & Loomis 7 FR, Gibson Explorer, LTD Explorer, Kemper Rack, EVH 5150III, Mesa Oversized 4x12, Overwater Contemporary Jazz 5 www.facebook.com/theblackstymphalian

March 14th, 2007, 09:13 PM	#20 (permalink)
JeffTD Ballclap Supremus Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: San Luis Obispo, CA Posts: 10,935	I'd be sure to consider purchasing the Littlelabs Redeye when you guys get into reamping - combo DI and reamp box, and does both damned well! __________________ Arcana Recordings

March 13th, 2007, 06:15 PM	#2 (permalink)
-Gavin- Gavornator Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Oulu, Finland Posts: 12,320	Subtle as fuck!

March 13th, 2007, 07:11 PM	#5 (permalink)
_RiseInside_ Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Portugal Posts: 341	thumbs up !

March 13th, 2007, 09:10 PM	#7 (permalink)
Mike Wead Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 13	Great guide indeed! The only think that leeps to my mind is in a way obvious: When monitoring,use a sound that make even minor flaws audible i.e. not a forgiving sound that'll give you/your engineer weeks of editing.

March 13th, 2007, 10:26 PM	#8 (permalink)
flytrapx Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 76	Stellar explanations as usual, Oz! Re-amping is definitely up there in the "arcane arts" division of engineering. Were you also going to post info on re-amping the tracks through the amp? That would be killer!

March 14th, 2007, 04:22 AM	#10 (permalink)
LSD-Studio HCAF crusher Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Germany Posts: 3,447	nothing to add

March 14th, 2007, 11:24 AM	#13 (permalink)
fistula Producer/Mixing Engineer Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 516	just have an question about mic pre-amp what should i use? im using at this moment this DJ mixer http://www.numark.com/products/produ...=overview&n=94 is it good enough?

March 14th, 2007, 11:37 AM	#14 (permalink)
elmuchoescadawg Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: England Posts: 939	So Oz, when does the book come out?

March 14th, 2007, 02:00 PM	#16 (permalink)
Thrasher666 Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 61	Nothing about using the Radial X-Amp? I just bought one and it's on it way here. This post makes me think I should send it back. What do you think? I have a Countryman passive box and a Sansamp Bass DI active, do I even need a X-Amp? I'm using a les paul with passive pickup's at the moment.

March 15th, 2007, 03:51 AM	#23 (permalink)
Gnash Lefty Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Warrensburg, MO Posts: 1,271	So, I'm getting this soonhttp://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ReampKitbut the J48 doesn't work well with passive pups? Should I just get the X amp, and search for a better DI? __________________ http://www.facebook.com/shanemeyer51...p?id=560372282 http://www.youtube.com/Gnash5150

March 15th, 2007, 06:39 AM	#24 (permalink)
greyskull Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5,790	doesnt it?? bugger i wanted one? any one know? any one know where to get the little labs in the uk, and how much it is?