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Photography / Videography

Discussion in 'LORD' started by Lord Tim, Dec 25, 2011.

  1. black_tooth_grin

    black_tooth_grin www.anwarrizk.com

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    Yes, I've heard about the Lytro camera. It's more of a fad item than something a professional would use.

    The sensor is fantastic, but since its so small you won't get much out of it. I know a couple of camera companies want to introduce the technology into their products, but camera prices would triple and quadruple if it were the case. Give it another 10 years and it would be more realistic to see such tech in modern DSLR cameras.

    Steve Jobs was in negotiations with Ren Ng, the creator of the Lytro camera before his passing to vastly improve the Apple iPhone camera. Commercially its a 1 megapixel camera. However, there are a lot of electrical companies who have upwards of 100 megapixel light field cameras.

    Its fantastic tech, but still very infant for commercial use.

    It has been awhile since I've posted some images. Here are shots of Steel Panther in Melbourne last Sunday at Festival Hall.

    [​IMG]
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  2. maiL huma

    maiL huma Collingwood forever

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    Hi guys,

    Well I'm making the switch to Canon. I've been a Nikon user since the early 90s with my first SLR camera, the magnificent FE10, but as I primarily want a DSLR for video stuff, I figure its time to go with the leaders in the DSLR video market.

    Looking at the 5D mark III.

    Thought?

    Cheers
    Liam
     
  3. Lord Tim

    Lord Tim That guy from LORD

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    If you're looking at the best price per feature DSLR, this is the one. It's the 5DmkII with the 7D's much more sensible control layout and beefed up internals. Put some great glass on it (or even get an adaptor and use your Nikon glass) and it's a brilliant video camera. :)
     
  4. maiL huma

    maiL huma Collingwood forever

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    Cool thanks man :)

    Any favourite pieces of canon glass you'd recommend? Do you use other manufacturers as well?
     
  5. Lord Tim

    Lord Tim That guy from LORD

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    Yeah, I have a few different things - a Tokina 11-15mm wide (which works especially great strapped to a Steadicam - you can see it in action in our clip for Betrayal Blind below, all of the shots running around the band), a Samyang 8mm fisheye (which I used a lot for the Platinum Brunette clip in the "crazy patient" scene, below), and the rest are Canon.

    You really can't go wrong with a "nifty 50" Canon 50mm f/1.8 prime. They're about $120 and worth having in your arsenal. I have the more expensive f/1.4 (about $400). Great for low light and the bokeh it produces when it's wide open is glorious. If you can swing it, a 50mm f/1.2 L series is drool worthy... and also around $1600.

    Aside from a 50mm prime, I like to have a wide angle like my Tokina, and a decent zoom lens. I have an 18 - 200mm which gets me by. It's f/3.5 to f/5.6 so it's a bit annoying when you've set up your exposure on the wide end of the zoom and then when you zoom in your video goes dark because the aperture increases. It'll do the job but I do recommend dropping some cash on a good constant aperture zoom so you don't suffer from that sort of thing. Not cheap, though.

    Apart from that stuff, I definitely recommend CPL and UV filters, and if you do a lot of stuff out in bright daylight, some ND filters. Unlike still photography, you can't just fuck around with the shutter speed if you want to control your light, there's a basic rule that your shutter speed is double your frame rate (so if you're shooting in PAL 25fps, your shutter speed will 50fps), and changing aperture to let in less light will fuck with your depth of focus. That means you need to control the brightness getting into the camera in other ways, so cheap ND filters will do the job, but it means you need to change them out depending on conditions, or you can go a Vari-ND where you turn the filter to darken it.

    Anyway, here's the clips where you can see everything I mentioned in action:



     
    #205 Lord Tim, Jan 8, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 20, 2015
  6. maiL huma

    maiL huma Collingwood forever

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    Awesome, thanks dude.

    Okay, n00b question time. All the shooting ive ever done has been using 16mm cameras, so 24fps equals normal speed, 48fps slow motion etc. adjust aperture as needed.

    Frame rate at 25fps equals 48fps shutter speed? Lulwot? :erk:

    Can you metre with a traditional film camera metre or do you need to use the camera metre?

    Any help here much appreciated mate! Thanks a million :worship:
     
  7. Lord Tim

    Lord Tim That guy from LORD

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    OK, forget a lot of what you've learned about speeds and things like that. Most of it will just confuse you, even things which are generally good advice - it can be contradictory until you entirely understand why DSLRs take video like they do (ie: so NOT important right now to know).

    Right, so most video other than in the USA and Japan is filmed at 25fps in the PAL format. The USA and Japan use NTSC which is 30fps (well, slightly under if you want to be pedantic). Most feature films are filmed at 24fps. I recommend setting your camera up for PAL for a start. There's a few good reasons for it in Australia, one big one is fluoro lights. We see lights, TV screens, etc. as continuously on, but they're actually flickering at 50hz - ie: 50 times every second. If your camera is set up as something other than a multiple of 25 (like PAL is) then you'll get major flickering in the camera. If we were in the USA and filmed at 25fps, you'd get a similar problem since their power is 60hz. So in Australia, use PAL.

    So your next most important thing to know is your frame rate. If you're shooting standard video, go into your menu and choose Movie Rec Size and set it to 1920x1080x25fps. As a general rule, to get that cinematic feel you set your shutter speed to double whatever frame rate you chose in the Movie Rec Size menu. You *can* go lower if you must but it starts looking more smeared like video does rather than distinct frames like a film camera would see when your frame rate is up a bit. If you go past double then it starts to get choppy - which can be a great effect - but use it as an effect rather than a way to control light.

    There's some nice special effects you can do if you change the Rec Size to 1280x720x50 (and therefore set your shutter speed to about 100 - using the double rule). If you shoot in this format and watch it back, it'll look super smooth like video, which you generally don't want. But in your video editing software you can slow this down to half speed and it'll still be nice smooth video. We used this trick in our Set In Stone clip where we played along to sped up audio, and then slowed it all down so it looked like we were playing the song in time but we were in slow motion.

    So yes, since you have no real control over your shutter speed, the only way to control light is with aperture and if you want good depth of focus, sometimes changing that isn't an option either, and that just leaves you with ISO. Unlike on a film based SLR, ISO really doesn't have anything to do with the sort of film stock you use (obviously), think of it more as a gain control. I've found you can generally crank your ISO up to 3200 and get away with stuff, even if it makes the footage a bit noisy. If you don't care about grain/noise and you want to use it as an effect, you can get cool looking footage cranked up past 16,000. I did that on the Speed Spider clip for Mechanical Black in one scene in near pitch black and it looked great. Definitely not recommended for general stuff though.

    With metering, I've only ever used the camera and it's pretty accurate, but I'm sure you could calibrate external metering to work well with the camera.

    Does this stuff actually make sense? HAHA!
     
  8. TROOPER MICK

    TROOPER MICK Member

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  9. maiL huma

    maiL huma Collingwood forever

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    Thanks so much for that Tim, makes perfect sense :)

    Be prepared or a deluge of questions when I actually get my mitts on my Canon...
     
  10. TROOPER MICK

    TROOPER MICK Member

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    Nikon D5100 body only for sale message me for details

    **SOLD**
     
  11. TROOPER MICK

    TROOPER MICK Member

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  12. Winmar

    Winmar Pillock of society

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    Nice wheels!

    I was thinking of getting a version of Photoshop for mucking around with my own photos and hopefully unleashing my inner creative beast (well maybe). What would be the best one to get? Elements as a starter? I know I've asked about Elements before (and I went back and read the responses), but is that the best bet? I've had a look at this comparison, but would be interested to hear opinions of you folk: http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshopfamily/buying-guide-version-comparison.html. I currently use Picasa for photo viewing and basic editing, so don't necessarily need something that overlaps with what that offers too much.

    One thing I would like to be able to do is remove background things that get in the way (people, for example). Also I would like to be able to blur the background, such as in this shot:

    [​IMG]

    My grandma just died, so I've been looking through my photos of her. I like this one, but I'd like to make the background less busy and remove that thing that's above my grandpa's head, for example.
     
  13. black_tooth_grin

    black_tooth_grin www.anwarrizk.com

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    Something like this, mate?

    [​IMG]

    I use Photoshop CS2. Majority are the same with the latest version offering red eye reduction and easy to use leveling, similar to Lightroom. Once you get over the learning curve you can pretty much do whatever you want.

    The image above only took me about 5 mins. The larger the image the more you can manipulate it and make it interesting.
     
  14. black_tooth_grin

    black_tooth_grin www.anwarrizk.com

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  15. TROOPER MICK

    TROOPER MICK Member

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  16. Winmar

    Winmar Pillock of society

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    Nice shots! My 2yo daughter saw them and said "Where's Lexxi? Where's Michael?". As luck would have it, there are Steel Panther shots at the top of this page, so I was able to show her them. :)

    I was thinking more of blurring the existing background, but actually I wanted to know how to do what you did as well! Did you use a selection tool, crop the selection you wanted, then add it as a layer to the background image you had, or something like that?

    I downloaded a trial version of Elements and have started mucking around with it. When that runs out I'll do the same for Lightroom etc and see which version I find most suitable.
     
  17. black_tooth_grin

    black_tooth_grin www.anwarrizk.com

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    Pretty much. I used a magnetic lasso and cropped around the existing image. I then cleaned up the edges.

    The only thing I changed was the light reflect and its position on the two figures. The light source is coming directly up top to coincide with the background.

    With more time and fiddling around you can even the levels so the background and foreground have the same lighting.
     
  18. black_tooth_grin

    black_tooth_grin www.anwarrizk.com

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    Some snaps of my recent adventure at Soundwave in Melbourne.
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  19. Winmar

    Winmar Pillock of society

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    Man you got some epic shots. Love the wheelchair one! Which band is the guy from the first pic from?
     
  20. black_tooth_grin

    black_tooth_grin www.anwarrizk.com

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